Nevado Ausangate Normal Route (6,384m) 6D/5N


Nevado Ausangate is the 5th highest peak in Peru at 6,384m, and the highest of the seven 6,000m peaks in the Cusco Region. The first ascent to the main summit in 1953 was led by the famous Austrian mountaineer Heinrich Harrer, part of the first team to conquer the north face of the Eiger and from the book/movie “Seven Years in Tibet”. Ausangate is by far the most well-known big peak for mountaineering in Cusco since the normal route is not so technically difficult, although a good amount of stamina is needed for trail breaking on the summit plateau. Ausangate is the principal Apu of Cusco and can be seen from many places in the city. There are less tourists that visit this province of Cusco but it is becoming more popular as a destination for the circuit trek in the dry season.

There are 3 types of service for the route:


The itinerary:

Day 1 Cusco - Pacchanta
We leave Cusco at 11am in an express van and arrive to Tinqui in the afternoon. From there we take a taxi to the herding community of Pacchanta(4236m) and spend the night in a local house close to geothermal baths.
Day 2 Pacchanta - Base Camp
At 7am we start our trek to base camp with our arriero carrying the equipment on a horse. The trail (22km) passes through several green-blue lagoons at the foot of Nevado Ausangate and then crosses the Jampa Pass (5100m). We reach Base Camp (4800m) on the south side of the mountain at 3pm.
Day 3 Base Camp - Moraine Camp
After breakfast we will go up more than 700m to Moraine Camp at 5476m. The hike should take 3-4 hours, which gives us plenty of time to rest before the climb.
Day 4 Moraine Camp - Summit - Base Camp
We awake at 12:30am and leave the tent by 1am. After traversing crevasses we arrive to a 200m wall at 60-70 degrees. After the wall, a glacier hike of about 4 hours brings us to the summit. We descend the same route and rappel the 200m wall. At Moraine Camp we rest, pack up and then go down to Base Camp to spend the night.
Day 5 Base Camp - Pacchanta
We return to Pacchanta by walking 22km in about 7-8 hrs. Here we will stay by the thermal baths in a local house.
Day 6: Pacchanta - Cusco
After enjoying the thermal baths, we take our transport back to Tinqui and then Cusco, arriving in the afternoon.

Included in the package:

  • Transportation (Cusco to Pacchanta, Pacchanta to Cusco)
  • All camping/group climbing equipment
  • 1 High Mountain Guide per 2 clients
  • Arriero and horse service (will carry all expedition gear)
  • Food from Lunch Day 1 until Breakfast Day 6.

You will need

  • Personal mountaineering equipment (helmet, harness, belay device, 2 technical axes, crampons)
  • clothing for cold and rain
  • mountaineering boots
  • headlamp
  • sleeping bag
  • mattress
  • backpack 40-70 liters
  • sunglasses
  • sunscreen

Although technical mountaineering experience is not required; it is preferable that you have some glacier travel experience since there are several crevasses on the route. The steepest part is a 200m snow wall at 60° to arrive up on the summit plateau.

Sky Hight Expeditions