Climb Ausangate "Shield" Route (6384m) 7D/6N


This route is for mountaineers. It climbs the shield shaped wall on the south face of the mountain. There is a technical pass of 7m vertical hard ice to enter the wall. The Shield itself is 350m, 70-80 degrees and tops out at 6200m. From there the semi-technical ridge is climbed to the summit.

There are 3 types of service for the route:


The itinerary:

Day 1: Cusco - Pacchanta
We leave Cusco at 11am in an express van and arrive to Tinqui in the afternoon. From there we take a taxi to the herding community of Pacchanta (4236m) and spend the night in a local house close to geothermal baths.
Day 2: Pacchanta - Base Camp
At 7am we start our trek to base camp with our arriero carrying the equipment on a horse. The trail (22km) passes through several green-blue lagoons at the foot of Nevado Ausangate and then crosses the Jampa Pass (5100m). We reach Base Camp (4800m) on the south side of the mountain at 3pm.
Day 3: Base Camp – Moraine Camp
After breakfast we will go up more than 700m to Moraine Camp at 5476m. The hike should take 3-4 hours.
Day 4: Moraine Camp – Camp 1
We awake at 5am and eat breakfast. Then we will continue on to the foot of the large shield shaped wall and camp at 5750m. Arriving early we will have plenty of time to fix a rope over the entrance crevasse. (If you are a very strong mountaineer it is possible to do this route directly from Moraine Camp, the extra day would then be saved to rest either before or after the day of the climb.)
Day 5: Camp 1 – Summit – Base Camp
We will leave the tent at 2am and enter the wall on our fixed rope. The shield should take 3 hours or so. Then we will climb the final ridge to the summit which is about another 3 hour climb. We will most likely descend the normal route. We will pack up camp and go down to base camp.
Day 6: Base Camp - Pacchanta
We return to Pacchanta by walking 22km in about 7-8hrs. Here we will stay by the thermal baths in a local house.
Day 7: Pacchanta - Cusco
After enjoying the thermal baths, we take our transport back to Tinqui and then Cusco, arriving in the afternoon.

Included in the package:

  • Transportation (Cusco to Pacchanta, Pacchanta to Cusco)
  • All camping/group climbing equipment
  • 1 High Mountain Guide per 2 clients
  • Arriero and horse service (will carry all expedition gear)
  • Food from Lunch Day 1 until Breakfast Day 7.

You will need

  • Personal mountaineering equipment (helmet, harness, belay device, 2 technical axes, crampons)
  • clothing for cold and rain
  • mountaineering boots
  • headlamp
  • sleeping bag
  • mattress
  • backpack 40-70 liters
  • sunglasses
  • sunscreen

Technical and high altitude mountaineering experience is required. You should be in excellent physical condition and acclimatized to attempt this climb.

Sky Hight Expeditions