Nevado Ausangate North Face 6,384mts 6D/5N

North Face

This route is for serious mountaineers who want a steep climb and less trail breaking. Although technical, the 1,000m face is very accessible, being only a short distance from Pacchanta or Upis. The snow/ice is also harder and often has better climbing conditions than the normal route on the south face.

There are 3 types of service for the route:


The itinerary:

Day 1: Cusco - Pacchanta
We leave Cusco at 11am in an express van and arrive to Tinqui in the afternoon. From there we take a taxi to the herding community of Pacchanta (4236m) and spend the night in a local house close to geothermal baths.
Day 2: Pacchanta - Base Camp Azulcocha
At 11am we start our 2 hour trek to base camp with our arriero carrying the equipment on a horse.
Day 3: Base Camp – Camp 1
After breakfast we will go up about 1,000m to Camp 1 at 5450m. The hike should take 3-4 hours.
Day 4: Camp 1, Fixing lines
We awake at 4am and eat breakfast. Then we spend the day fixing lines over the beginning of the route. There are a couple crevasses that need to be crossed.
Day 5: Camp 1 – Summit – Camp 1
We will leave the tent at 1am and enter the wall on our fixed ropes. The entire face should take about 9 hours. We come out at the 2nd summit and traverse to the main summit about an hour more. It will be about 6-8 hours to get down. Be prepared for a long day of about 17-18 hours.
Day 6: Camp 1 – Pacchanta - Cusco
We pack up and return 4 hours walking to Pacchanta. We can visit the thermal baths as we wait for our transportation back to Cusco. We arrive back around 6pm.

Included in the package:

  • Transportation (Cusco to Pacchanta, Pacchanta to Cusco)
  • All camping/group climbing equipment
  • 1 High Mountain Guide per 2 clients
  • Arriero and horse service (will carry all expedition gear)
  • Food from Lunch Day 1 until Breakfast Day 6.

You will need

  • Personal mountaineering equipment (helmet, harness, belay device, 2 technical axes, crampons)
  • clothing for cold and rain
  • mountaineering boots
  • headlamp
  • sleeping bag
  • mattress
  • backpack 40-70 liters
  • sunglasses
  • sunscreen

Technical and high altitude mountaineering experience is required. You should be in excellent physical condition and acclimatized to attempt this climb.

Sky Hight Expeditions