Nevado Chumpe 6,110m 5D/4N


Nevado Chumpe is also known as Jatunriti or Huiscachanidepending on which side of the peak you are on. Piero Ghiglione called it Yanaloma on the first ascent in 1955. It is a large, broad mountain on the northern side of the Cordillera Vilcanota range and the third highest peak in Cusco after Ausangate and Salkantay. The main difficulty is in route finding a way through the crevasses and breaking trail on the south face. The main summit block requires a bit of steeper climbing over a crevasse, the south summit is an easy walk from the col. The climb of the NW ridge is more sustained and technical.


The itinerary:

Day 1 Cusco – Base Camp Mullucocha (4,600mts)
We take a shuttle to the town of Tinki, 3 hours to the SE of Cusco. There we will have lunch and then take a taxi to the trail head. From there it is a 5 hour walk to base camp.
Day 2 Base Camp – Advance Base Camp (5,300mts)
The hike from Base camp to Camp 1 is about 5-7 hours total. There is horse access, so no porting!
Day 3 ABC – Summit (6,110mts) – ABC
We will leave at 1am. The climb is about 7-9 hours to the summit, then a descent of about 5 back to ABC.
Day 4 ABC - Base Camp
From here we will cross mostly flat moraine until we arrive back at base camp in about 5 hours.
Day 5 Base Camp - Cusco
We will hike out 5 hours to the trailhead where a taxi will take us down to Tinki. Then we take our bus back to Cusco.

Included in the package:

  • Transportation (Cusco to Marampaki, Marampaki to Cusco)
  • All camping/group climbing equipment
  • 1 High Mountain Guide per 2 clients
  • Arriero and horse service (will carry all expedition gear)
  • Food from Lunch Day 1 until Lunch Day 5.

You will need:

  • Personal mountaineering equipment (helmet, harness, belay device, 2 technical axes, crampons)
  • clothing for cold and rain
  • mountaineering boots
  • headlamp
  • sleeping bag
  • mattress
  • backpack 40-70 liters
  • sunglasses
  • sunscreen

Although technical mountaineering experience is not required; it is preferable that you have some glacier travel experience since there are many crevasses on the southern route. The NW ridge is more technical and has a 5m vertical top out on the summit block.

Sky Hight Expeditions