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Nathan Heald, Climbs and Expeditions

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I am an independent mountaineering guide, native of the United States. I live in Cusco with my joyful wife Kerly Salamanca (Peruvian). In 2011 I moved to Cusco, Peru looking for adventure and intent on climbing the highest, most difficult mountains the area had to offer. I had climbed Ausangate in 2010 and was surprised to see that in Cusco there was no mountaineering culture like in Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca where I had climbed for a few seasons. The ranges of Cusco felt different, more adventurous, like they extended into timeless, forgotten places at the ends of the earth and the amazon. Legends of the Apus descended from ancient times giving the people a more mystical view in respect to the mountains. But despite having all these wonderful peaks, most all the tourism in Cusco is dedicated to conventional activities. Some adventure options are available like downhill biking, zip lining or rafting but there was almost no information on mountaineering in Cusco at that time. I saw the potential there was and decided to be the first to pioneer the development of the sport in Cusco.

Over the past four years I have compiled the best mountaineering and guiding curriculum in Cusco in history (see below), climbing most of the principal mountains in Cusco and many of them by new routes. I have climbed Ausangate 10 times by 3 different routes and Salkantay 3 times by 2 routes. Some of our peaks have only been climbed a few times in history and a few never at all until we summited. I have made many true friends in the highlands and have been able to introduce several locals to climbing and crampons for the first time. One of my most trusted friends, Luis Crispin from the community of Pacchanta at the foot of Ausangate, is my best climbing partner with whom I have shared many incredible ascents. He has even made me the Godfather of his youngest daughter. Another great friend Edwin Espinoza, from the town of Mollepata at the foot of Salkantay, has been a major part in all operations of that area from the beginning. Aside from being the main protagonists of developing mountaineering tourism in the area, we have pioneered many personal climbing projects that have been featured in news outlets like “Barrabes”, “Desnivel” and the prestigious American Alpine Journal 2014, 2015 & 2016. Every year I go to Huaraz also to continue climbing the beautiful peaks there where among others I have climbed Huascaran and Yerupaja 1st and 2nd highest in Peru. This activity and publicity helps to promote Cusco as an international mountaineering destination.

In the past few years, the amount of tourism in Cusco has grown each year; more people have added Machu Picchu to their bucket list worldwide. But as the flow of visitors increases so have the boring, plastic wrapped and copied tours that are available to them. I get frustrated to see that many agencies and guides only see their clients as a dollar sign and will say anything to sell them something. Some of the groups make me laugh how they are herded like sheep and follow their guide holding up a little flag. Even the government agencies designed to develop tourism, threaten to make everything lame and boring in the interest of getting money. Only a few Peruvian mountain guides try their best to get their clients to the summit; many “Base Camp Guides” tell them whatever excuse (wind, avalanche conditions, etc.) to not climb and go back to town getting paid just the same. Most guides here have only ever known the mountains as a means to make money, not as the means to pursue true passions and let the spirit fly.

I strive to offer my clients a fulfilling, unique experience when they explore Cusco with me. I always work with local families of the area we enter (whom I pay better than the standard rates because they are my friends before anything else) and contribute directly to the local economy as much as possible. We practice “leave no trace” and “pack in pack out” principles to conserve the natural areas we visit. To keep good safety standards I only use well-known brands, brought from the USA like Black Diamond, Mammut, Bluewater, North Face, etc.

If you want to truly get off the tourist tracks and have a real mountain experience in Cusco, let me know well in advance!

- Nathan Heald -



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Nathan Heald, Climbs and Expeditions

These are climbs and expeditions that I have personally guided over the past four years. Besides these I have operated many groups with other guides.

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2016

Nevado Allincapac (5,837mts, D, West Ridge/ W Face) Cordillera Carabaya New route, 5th ascent overall

October 5-8
Summit: October 8th at 9:30am
With Luis Crispin, Coqui Galvez (Peru)

Nevado Salkantay (6,279mts, D, N Face) Cordillera Vilcabamba

September 15-24
Summit: no summit, above high camp we turned around
With John L. and Devin C.

Nevado Ausangate (6,384mts, AD, SE Face) Cordillera Vilcanota

August 25-31
Summit: August 27th at 10am
With American Climber Science Program to collect snow samples for climate change and glaciology research., Morgan S., Carl S., Bill T., Mike A., (USA) and Yjeguel Camasa (Peru)

Nevado Panta (5,660mts, D, W Face), Cordillera Vilcabamba New Route, 2nd ascent overall

August 14-18
Summit: August 16th at 10:30am
With Duncan M. (USA) and Waldemar N. (Brasil)

Nevado Pumasillo (5,991mts, TD+, W Ridge/Face) Cordillera Vilcabamba

August 5-12
Summit: We stopped 50m below the summit.
With Duncan M. (USA) and Waldemar N. (Brazil)

Nevado Salkantay (6,279mts, D, N Face), Cordillera Vilcabamba

July 24-31
Summit: July 29th at 10am
With Waldemar N. (Brazil), Florian P. (Switzerland), Edwin Espinoza, Marco Jurado, and Macario Crispin (Peru)

Cerro Soray (5,446mts, PD, N Face) + Salkantay - Aobamba Trek to Machu Picchu, Cordillera Vilcabamba

July 10-18th
Summit: July 12th at 8:20am
With Catherine T., Simon T. (Canada)

Expedition to Cordillera Carabaya

June 29 - July 5
Nevado Japuma (5,500m, F), June 30th Pico Carol (Gendarme on Allincapac SE ridge, 100m from main summit)(5,780m, TD, new route S Face), July 1st Nevado Chichicapac (5,650m, D, W Face), July 4th With Duncan M., Aaron Z., Jeanne Z. (USA), Derek F.(Canada), Vahitaire B., Yasu B. (Chile)

Nevado Yayamari (6,050mts, PD, NW Ridge) Cordillera Vilcanota

June 18-23
Summit: June 21st at 9am
With Aaron Z., Jeanne Z., Nick E., Sean C., Duncan M. (USA), Mery S. (Australia), Danielle D. (Netherlands), Derek F. (Canada), Vahi B. (Chile)

Cerro Soray (5,446mts, PD, N Face), Cordillera Vilcabamba

June 14-16
Summit: June 16th at 8am
With Kyle G.(USA), Derek F.(Canada), Jenny M.(Germany), Marco Jurado(Peru)

Nevado Veronica (5,911mts, D, NE Face), Cordillera Urubamba

June 7-10
Summit: June 9th at 9:30am
With Gary F. (Canada)

Nevado Jatunhuma (6,093mts, D, East Face) Cordillera Blanca, Ancash. New route, 7th ascent overall

May 29 - June 1
Summit: May 30th at 9am
With Derek F. (Canada)

Salkantay - Aobamba - Machu Picchu Trek

May 21-26
With 5 people from different countries

Nevado Ausangate (6,384mts, AD, SE Face), Cordillera Vilcanota

May 14-17
Summit: May 16th at 8:30am
With Rick B. (Switzerland) and Eduardo B. (Peru)

Salkantay - Aobamba - Machu Picchu Trek

April 26 - May 2
With a couple from Peru

Nevado Jatunhuma III (5,830mts, PD)

April 17-21
Summit: April 20th at 7:30am
With Luis Crispin and Eduardo Baca (Peru)

Nevado Chainopuerto (5,550m, D) Cordillera Urubamba. New Route, 2nd ascent overall

April 5-7
Summit: April 6th at 10:30am
With Coqui Galvez, Eduardo Baca and Yjeguel Camasa (Peru)

Nevado Tinke (5,400mts, AD) Cordillera Vilcanota

March 17-18
Summit: March 18th at 7am
With Luis Crispin and Eduardo Baca

Nevado Bonanta (5,300mts, PD/AD), Cordillera Urubamba. 2nd ascent overall

March 8-10
Summit: March 9th at 10am
With Eduardo Baca and Yjeguel Camasa

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Sky Hight Expeditions