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Nevado Yayamari 6,050m 6D/5N

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yayamari
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Nevado Yayamari is a large, heavily glaciated mountain on the remote eastern end of the Cordillera Vilcanota range. The name Yayamari means “Father of the little lakes” in Quechua due to the many lagoons around the base of the mountain. These all filter into the massive lake Sibinacocha which lies at an incredible 4,900mts of altitude. Around this lake lies the largest tropical glacier in the world, the “Ritipampa de Quellcaya”, which is SE of Yayamari. Entrance to the zone is two days travel from Cusco. The climb itself is technically the easiest of the 6,000ers in Cusco, the steepest slope being 50°. The main difficulty is in route finding a way through the crevasses.

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The itinerary:

Day 1 Cusco – Sicuani (3,500mts)
We take a shuttle to the town of Sicuani, 3.5 hours to the SE of Cusco on the road to Puno. There we will stay overnight in a hostal.
Day 2 Sicuani – Phinaya (4,850mts)
We will go up by van to the town of Phinaya on the side of Lake Sibinacocha. We will stay the night here in a local house to facilitate the acclimatization process.
Day 3 Phinaya – Base Camp, Laguna Ccascaracocha (5000mts)
The next day we will walk about 11km on our way to base camp. Here we will be able to catch a trout or two to have for dinner.
Day 4 Base Camp – Camp 1 (5,300mts)
From here we will cross mostly flat moraine until we arrive at the glacier. The access is quite easy and allows us to put a camp well within range of the summit.
Day 5 Camp 1 – Summit (6,049mts) – Base Camp
Wake up call is at 1am. We leave the tent at 2am and begin navigating the glaciers on our way up the NW face. The climb takes an average of 6 hours to complete. After we descend we will pack up Camp 1 and return to Base Camp.
Day 6 Base Camp – Phinaya – Cusco
After breakfast at 7am we will walk back to Phinaya where the taxi will be waiting for us to go down. In Sicuani we’ll have lunch and then take a shuttle back to Cusco arriving in the evening.

Included in the trip:

  • Transportation (Cusco to Phinaya, Phinaya to Cusco)
  • All camping/group climbing equipment
  • 1 High Mountain Guide per 2 clients
  • Arriero and horse service (will carry all expedition gear)
  • Food from Lunch Day 1 until Lunch Day 6.

You will need

  • Personal mountaineering equipment (helmet, harness, belay device, 2 technical axes, crampons)
  • clothing for cold and rain
  • mountaineering boots
  • headlamp
  • sleeping bag
  • mattress
  • backpack 40-70 liters
  • sunglasses
  • sunscreen

Although technical mountaineering experience is not required; it is preferable that you have some glacier travel experience since there are some crevasses to gain the ridge.

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Sky Hight Expeditions