Over the last years I have dedicated to exploring the mountains of Peru. I am the only person who has climbed the 10 highest mountains in Peru (Huascaran, Yerupaja, Coropuna, Huandoy, Ausangate, Huantsan, Siula Grande, Chopicalqui, Ampato and Salkantay), some of them by new routes.
Also climbing over 20 new routes and some first absolute ascents on 5,000 meter peaks.
I have climbed and guided on many other mountains in Peru and other countries, but the list below (in alphabetical order) are the climbs I am most proud of, that have given me expertise guiding and climbing in the Andes of Peru.
Our climbs have been featured in the American Alpine Journal (2014-2020), Mountaineering / Ski Magazines Barrabes, Desnivel and Alpinist.
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Nevado Allincapac (5,837mts), Cordillera Carabaya
West Face – “D” – 6th ascent overall
October 5-8, 2016
Summit: October 8th at 9:30am
With Luis Crispin, Coqui Galvez (Peru)
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web16c/newswire-first-ascent-new-routes-in-perus-rarely-visited-caraba
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Nevado Artesonraju (6,025mts), Cordillera Blanca
SW Aréte – “TD”
Summit: June 14, 2015 at 2pm
With Duncan M, Tom R (USA)
Paramount pictures logo peak.
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Nevado Ausangate (6,384mts), Cordillera Vilcanota, (5th highest in Peru)
NW Face – “TD”
I have climbed the NW face of Ausangate twice, the first time with Luis Crispin and Edwin Espinoza on July 8th, 2013 to the summit ridge. The second with Roger G (Switzerland) on July 15th, 2015 to the main summit.
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Nevado Ausangate (6,384mts), Cordillera Vilcanota, (5th highest in Peru)
SE Face – Normal Route – “AD”
I have summited Ausangate ten times by the normal route from 2010 until 2017.
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Nevado Callangate IV (6,120m), Cordillera Vilcanota
New Route, 4th ascent Overall: West Face – 900m – “D” – WI3
April 20th, 2015 at 9:50am
With Luis Crispin (Peru) and Caleb J (USA)
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213753/Nevado-Cayangate-IV-West-Face
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Cerro Soray (5,446m), Cordillera Vilcabamba
Luis Crispin and I made the first ascent of Cerro Soray by the SE ridge on September 8th, 2012. Edwin Espinoza and I climbed the north face on October 24th, 2012 and we have since ascended many times by this route (PD).
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Nevado Chichicapac (5,650m), Cordillera Carabaya
West face – “D”
July 4th, 2016 (This peak has only been climbed a handful of times)
With Jeanne Z., Duncan M., Vahitaire B.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213949
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Nevado Colque Cruz (Alcamarinayoc) (6,102m), Cordillera Vilcanota
New Route – 7th ascent overall – South face – “D+”
September 25th, 2014
With Edwin Espinoza
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213163/Nevado-Colque-Cruz-south-face
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Nevado Huandoy (6,395m), Cordillera Blanca, (4th highest in Peru)
New route variation – NW Face – 1,200m – “TD”
October 19th, 2017
I soloed Huandoy Norte (6,395m) in 19 hours roundtrip from high camp at 5,200m.
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Nevado Huantsán (6,395m), “K2 of the Andes”, Cordillera Blanca, (6th highest in Peru)
West wall to West summit to Main summit – 1,300m – “TD+” – We were the first to complete this to the summit after several previous attempts by other teams since 1972.
July 31st, 2018 (22 hours roundtrip from Camp 1 at 5,750m)
With Arttu Pylkkanen, Johanes Suikkanen, Macario Crispin, Devin Corboy, Javier Reyes
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214962
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Nevado Huayna Ausangate (5,600m), Cordillera Vilcanota
New Route – 4th ascent: North face – west ridge – south face, 600m, “D”, AI3, M4
September 29th, 2015
With Luis Crispin
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213752/Nevado-Huayna-Ausangate-New-Route
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Nevado Humantay North (5,403m), Cordillera Vilcabamba
First Ascent: North Face – 500m – “D”
July 9th, 2014
With Macario Crispin, Michael Hauss and Michael Church (This peak is the northernmost on the chain that extends NW from Nevado Salkantay west ridge. They are labeled “Nevados Humantay” on the Peruvian IGN topo map, none of these had any recorded ascents.)
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Nevado Humantay South (5,455m), Cordillera Vilcabamba
First Ascent: SE Face – 500m – “AD”
October 28th, 2017
With Emil Tjonneland and Jack Barker (This peak is the southernmost on the chain that extends NW from Nevado Salkantay west ridge. They are labeled “Nevados Humantay” on the Peruvian IGN topo map, none of these had any recorded ascents.)
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Nevado Jatunhuma (Tres Picos) (6,127m), Cordillera Vilcanota
New Route: 7th ascent overall – East Face – 700m – “D+”
June 1st, 2016
With Derek Field
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213948/Nevado-Jatunhuma-East-Face
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Nevado Mariposa (5,842m), Cordillera Vilcanota
North Face – 800m – “D”
I have climbed Mariposa twice: on May 9th, 2012 free soloing and filming a Peruvian rope team, and while guiding Jeff and Camille P. from France on September 10th, 2015. We traversed the peak and descended the South face directly to the Ausangate Base Camp.
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Nevado Palqay (5,422m), Cordillera Vilcabamba
First Ascent: SW Buttress – 600m – “D”
May 11th, 2015
With Edwin Espinoza and Waldemar Niclevicz
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213754/Nevado-Palqay-West-Buttress
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Nevado Panta (Otaña) (5,680m), Cordillera Vilcabamba
2nd Ascent: New Route – SW Face – 800m – “D”
August 16th, 2016
With Duncan McDaniel and Waldemar Niclevicz
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Nevado Puca Punta (5,740m), Cordillera Vilcanota
5th Ascent: New Route – South Face of Caracol Traverse West Ridge – 800m – “TD”
June 1st, 2013
With Luis Crispin
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Nevado Pumasillo (5,991m), Cordillera Vilcabamba
West Ridge – 1,000m – “TD” – WI4
August 11th, 2016
Duncan McDaniel, Waldemar Niclevicz and I climbed this route in 22hours from Moraine Camp (4,900m). We stopped 50m below the summit. This route had been climbed 5 times from 1957 to 1974 but the ridge is now very broken.
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Nevado Sahuasiray (5,818m), Cordillera Urubamba
2nd Ascent, new route: SW Face – 500m – “D”
I went to High camp (5,300m) with Eduardo Baca and Erich Nordt. Then soloed the route to the summit in 5 hours on April 9th, 2014.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213160/Nevado-Sahuasiray-southwest-face
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Nevado Chainopuerto (5,650m), Cordillera Urubamba
2nd Ascent: East Face to South Face – 600m – “D” – AI3
With Coqui Galvez, Yjeguel Camasa, Eduardo Baca
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214093/Nevado-Chainopuerto-East-Face
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Nevado Salkantay (6,279m), Cordillera Vilcabamba, (10th highest in Peru)
NE Ridge and North Face – 1,200m – “D+”
I have made the East summit 4 different times with different partners: 2013(twice by the NE ridge), then by the north face in 2015 and 2016. Salkantay had not been climbed since 1988 and is one of the harder mountains in Peru. It is my favorite peak for being so unique and close to the jungle, so much so that I own a cabin at the foot of the peak in the remote Ahobamba valley.
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Nevado Sirijuani (5,400m), Cordillera Urubamba
New Route: 5th ascent – NW Face – 500m – “AD”
January 6th, 2015
With Coqui Galvez, Yjeguel Camasa and Eduardo Baca
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213156/Nevado-Sirijuani-northwest-face
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Nevado Siula Grande (6,368m), Cordillera Huayhuash, (7th highest in Peru)
New Route: S/SE Face – 1000m – “TD” – AI4
June 26th, 2019
With Arttu Pylkkanen, Ben Billet, Luis Crispin and Thomas Schilter
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215442
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/peruana-supreme-up-sse-face-siula-grande-peru.html
https://www.barrabes.com/blog/noticias/2-10693/huayhuash-nueva-ruta-siula-grande
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Nevado Terijuay (5,330m), Cordillera Urubamba
2nd Ascent: South Face – 500m – “AD”
August 17th, 2017
With Coqui Galvez, Andres Putallaz, Manolo Urquizo
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Nevado Tucarhuay (Humantay) (5,943m), Cordillera Vilcabamba
3rd Ascent: New Route – South Face Direct – 1,000m – “TD+” – AI4
With Duncan McDaniel. We spent a night in a bivouac 150m below the summit on an ice ledge.
“Nevado Tucarhuay” on the Peruvian IGN Topo map (sheet2344) is called “Humantay” by the locals. At present, hundreds of tourists go to the “Humantay Lagoon” at the base of this mountain every day. The West peak is 5,943m and the East peak is 5,700m.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213755/Nevado-Tucarhuay-South-Face-Direct
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Nevado Tucarhuay (Humantay) East Peak (5,700m), Cordillera Vilcabamba
2nd Ascent: North Face – 500m – “AD”
September 18th, 2013
With Edwin Espinoza
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Nevado Veronica (5,911m), Cordillera Urubamba
Northeast Face – 1,000m – “D”
I have climbed Veronica 5 times: 2012, 2013, 2014, 2016 and 2018.
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Nevado Yerupaja (6,634m), Cordillera Huayhuash, (2nd highest in Peru)
West Face – 1,200m – “TD”
September 12th, 2014
With Luis Crispin in 20 hours roundtrip from Camp 1 (5,300m).
http://andesinfoplus.blogspot.com/2016/01/andes-peru-cordillera-de-huayhuash.html
https://www.barrabes.com/blog/noticias/2-9180/yerupaja-grande-6634m-2-montana